Rolex Auctions & Valuations

The name ‘Rolex’ has long been a hallmark of quality and precision. Although they’re known as a Swiss company, Rolex actually originated in Britain. In 1905, Hans Wilsdorf founded a retail company in London specialising in clocks and watches, and became interested in the idea of a very precise, reliable watch to be worn on the wrist - he invented the name ‘Rolex’ as he wanted a word that was easy to say, the same in all languages and was short enough to look good on a watch.

Rolex Oyster

In 1910, a Rolex wristwatch was the first to receive the coveted Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision, and in 1914, Kew Observatory awarded a class ‘A’ precision certificate to a Rolex watch, an accolade previously only awarded to marine chronometers. In 1919, Rolex moved to Geneva, and then in 1926 the company produced its iconic ‘Oyster’ watch, which had a hermetically sealed case to protect the movement. In 1927, cross-channel swimmer Mercedes Gleitze swam the English Channel wearing her Oyster, and the watch worked perfectly throughout the ten-mile swim!

Rolex Datejust

Rolex were responsible for many innovations in the field of watchmaking, such as the invention in 1931 of the world’s first self-winding mechanism with a perpetual rotor, followed in 1945 by the ‘Datejust’, the first watch to display the date on the dial. The company continues to produce high-quality watches to this day, and the Oyster remains one of its most popular models.

The name ‘Rolex’ is known by all, and good examples perform well at auction. There’s a buoyant market for good examples of Rolex watches, but early examples of these innovative models are particularly sought after. As with most antiques, condition and rarity are the driving factors when determining cost. As it was the brand of choice of many sports stars and celebrities, such as Sir Malcolm Campbell (who wore a Rolex when breaking his first land speed record), any proven links with famous owners will add to the value, as will original packaging or cases.

What to Consider When Buying a Rolex at Auction

Verify Authenticity

Rolex watches are among the most counterfeited items in the world, so authenticity is paramount. At reputable auctions, every watch should be inspected by specialist horologists. Buyers should look for:

Original movement and serial/reference numbers
Correct dial, hands, and bezel for the model
Matching numbers between case and bracelet
Any later replacements or service parts

Request condition reports and high-resolution images if bidding online.

Check the Condition Carefully

Even tiny details can affect the value of a Rolex. When examining the condition, consider:

Case wear, scratches, dents, or signs of polishing
Dial condition, original, restored, or refinished
Bracelet stretch or replacement
Movement condition and service history

Collectors often pay more for watches in untouched, original condition.

Know the Market Value

Prices vary widely between models, years, and conditions. Before bidding:

Review recent auction results
Compare similar references
Note variations such as dial types ("tropical", "gilt", "maxi dial")
Understand premium pricing for rare or discontinued models

Going into an auction with an informed price range helps prevent overbidding.

Tips for Sellers: How to Get the Best Price for Your Rolex

Gather All Documentation

Original boxes, papers, manuals, and even servicing receipts can significantly increase value. If you have:

Original guarantee card or papers
Chronometer certification
Boxes, swing tags, or receipts

…include them with the watch. Complete sets typically fetch higher prices and attract more serious collectors.

Know Your Model and Its History

Accurate identification is key to commanding the right price. Sellers benefit from knowing:

The reference number
Year of production
Dial variation
Movement calibre
Any significant provenance

Watches linked to notable owners, limited editions, or early innovations (e.g., early Oyster or Datejust models) perform especially well.

Present the Watch in Its Best Condition (But Avoid Over-Polishing)

Light cleaning can enhance appeal, but avoid polishing the case heavily as it can soften edges and reduce value. Instead:

Clean the bracelet and case gently
Check strap integrity
Have the watch inspected if it hasn’t been serviced recently

Some buyers specifically seek watches with their original finish, so tread carefully.

Choose the Right Sales Platform

Selling at auction can be more favourable than private sale, especially for rare pieces. Advantages include:

Access to specialist valuations
Global bidding audiences
Professionally presented listings
Transparent pricing and competitive bidding

For particularly rare or high-value pieces, consider dedicated watch sales for maximum exposure.

What Makes a Rolex Particularly Valuable?

Rarity

Limited production runs, early examples of iconic models (e.g., first-generation Submariner or Daytona), or discontinued references can command premium prices.

Provenance

Ownership by celebrities, sports figures, or historic individuals adds undeniable appeal. Watches with documented connections often exceed market value at auction.

Condition and Originality

Collectors prize originality. A watch with its original dial, bezel, crown, and bracelet usually outperforms one with replacement or service parts. Natural patina is often desirable.

Desirable Features

Certain features create strong demand, such as:

"Tropical" dials
Red text (e.g., Red Submariner)
Limited-run dial variations
Rare bezels (e.g., "ghost" faded bezels)
Early chronometer certifications

How Auctions Determine the Value of a Rolex

Auction houses typically assess:

Reference and serial number
Model rarity
Condition and signs of servicing
Presence of original papers and box
Market demand and recent sale results
Authenticity of all parts

Before going to auction, sellers receive a valuation estimate so they know what to expect.

Is Now a Good Time to Buy or Sell?

Demand for Rolex watches remains robust, particularly for vintage and pre-owned models. Well-preserved examples of classic models (Oyster, Submariner, Datejust, Daytona) continue to attract strong bidding.

We hold four dedicated watch auctions each year and offer a free Rolex valuation service as well as a free collection service for items consigned to our online auctions.

We offer a free valuation service for items consigned to these auctions. Contact us for a free valuation.

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